Nepali Wanderer

It all began with a split-second decision to board the bus to Alleppey. Otherwise, we were still in the midst of debating where to kickstart our journey. But you can always do this in Kerala. Not only is public transport readily available and dirt cheap, but you also get that safe vibe to follow your whims, even if it means arriving in Alleppey well past midnight and relying on the advice of a stranger for a lift and hotel recommendation.

This was my second visit to Kerala, the enchanting “God’s Own Country”. Having explored the coastal gems of Varkala and Kovalam on my previous trip, this time I wanted to discover other facets of this diverse region, commencing our adventure in Alleppey.

Known as the Venice of the East, Alleppey (or Alappuzha, as the Malayalam name goes) offers an iconic backwater experience. Our journey unfolded through a boathouse cruise, a captivating exploration of not just the picturesque house structures but also the vibrant lifestyle of the local residents. I must mention a special short lunch stop featuring crab curry on a banana leaf.

Our next stop was Kochi, a city brimming with art and flair. The Fort Kochi area in particular, with its cafes, streets, and the Jewish Synagogue, exuded a European vibe, a fact that becomes even more fascinating when delving into its rich history. These very streets once lured Europeans, making the wealth of Kerala a tale as ancient as history itself. The story of Jews arriving here long before the birth of Jesus or the Sumerians even earlier makes the story of Vasco Da Gama’s arrival a yesteryear event. Exploring this history led us to its museums and churches, one of which housed the remains of Vasco Da Gama, eventually transported to Portugal.

Fascinated by its history, we delved further into the city’s culture and art and watched a Kathakali performance, one of India’s classical dances. The intricate eye movements and expressions left us astounded, and the revelation that artists undergo a six-year course to master this craft added another layer of appreciation. (And to think, a bachelor’s and master’s six years feels too much for most of us!)

Having explored backwaters and a city, the hills beckoned us—a truly special aspect of Kerala. The names Malabar and Malayalam both find their origin in “Mala”, meaning mountain in their language. Off we drove towards Munnar.

For Bollywood fanatics, the picturesque tea estates in Munnar were enough for us to revisit that famous “Kashmiri to Kanyakumari” SRK song. We drove along the beautiful tea estates, lakes, and dams to reach one of the highest points in Kerala, from where we could peek into Tamil Nadu too. As we were traveling in the Monsoon, it only heightened the beauty of Kerala, as the rivers and even the random waterfalls were flowing at their peak.

We must have driven along 4-5 breathtaking waterfalls, and yet we decided to take a special detour for one additional waterfall, as this one was truly special to merit that extra effort. 

Remember that famous waterfall scene from Bahubali? Well, it was Athirappilly that had inspired that waterfall. I find it easier to write about Athirappilly using the Niagara reference, not just because Niagara is famous, but also because both look alike. Of course, Niagara is massive, and you get to experience its magnanimity up close via a boat ride there (which you cannot do in Athirapally). But there’s a separate kind of charm in Athirappilly, as you see none of the elevators or sophisticated manmade structures, with bare bamboo sticks as the barricade. That way, watching Athirappilly in full play is like watching a wild animal in the wild, obviously with an added dangerous but natural vibe.

In our nine-day journey, we covered the iconic backwaters, vibrant cities, and picturesque hills. Yet, what lingers most is the essence of Kerala found in the unassuming moments—the random tea stalls, street fruit vendors, the ubiquitous lottery shops, the lush green villages, school kids, and other intangibles. Every sight you encounter is brimming with life.

I knew I would return, and I did a year later, spending over a month there and acquiring a lifelong skill that I hope to turn into a lifestyle — a story for another time. For now, I want to cherish the memories of my second trip to Kerala, my favorite place in India.